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Standby Power: Which Appliances Cost the Most to Leave On?

Standby power quietly adds dollars to every Australian power bill. Here's which appliances are the worst offenders, how to measure the real cost, and which smart plugs make it easy to find out.

Kritin Curtis

Published •7 min read
Standby Power: Which Appliances Cost the Most to Leave On?
AI-generated illustration

Drafted with AI writing tools, then edited and fact-checked by Kritin Curtis. How we research.

Standby power charges vary by appliance, but entertainment systems (game consoles, soundbars, subwoofers), pay TV boxes, printers and always-on routers typically waste the most, often drawing power around the clock even when switched "off". Older televisions, idle pool pumps and networked office gear can also add noticeable dollars to a quarterly bill without anyone using them.

What Is Standby Power, and Why Does It Add Up?

Standby power (sometimes called phantom load or vampire power) is the electricity an appliance draws while it's plugged in but not actively being used. It keeps clocks running, remote sensors alert, Wi-Fi modules connected, and capacitors charged so the device can switch on instantly. On its own, one appliance in standby might only cost a few cents a week. The problem is scale — the average Australian home has dozens of devices plugged in permanently, and those small draws run 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

How Standby Power Is Measured

Standby draw is usually measured in watts (W), and even a small continuous load adds up over a billing cycle. A device drawing a modest number of watts around the clock for three months can end up costing more than an appliance you use for an hour a day. That's simply because of how much time it spends switched on. The only reliable way to know what any specific appliance in your home is drawing is to measure it directly, because standby consumption varies between brands, models and even firmware versions.

Why It's Hard to Guess From the Outside

You can't tell how much standby power something uses just by looking at it. A slim modern TV might draw less in standby than an older set-top box with a permanently lit LED display. This is why guides that list generic "typical" wattages for appliances should be treated as rough indicators only — your actual bill depends on your specific gear, so measuring is more useful than assuming.

The Worst Standby Power Culprits in Australian Homes

Entertainment and Gaming Setups

Home theatre systems are frequent offenders because they're made up of several always-connected components: the TV, soundbar or AV receiver, subwoofer, game console, and streaming box. Game consoles left in "instant on" or rest mode so they can install updates overnight are a common source of ongoing draw. So are subwoofers with built-in amplifiers that stay powered to avoid a warm-up delay.

Kitchen and Laundry Appliances

Microwaves, ovens with digital clocks, and coffee machines with standby heating elements all draw some power even when not cooking. Front-loading washing machines and dryers with electronic controls or delay-start features can also sip power continuously. None of these are usually the single biggest culprit, but together they contribute to the household total.

Networking and Office Gear

Routers, modems, Wi-Fi mesh points, printers and multi-function devices are designed to stay on permanently for connectivity, so it's rarely worth switching these off. Where the waste creeps in is with accessories around them — a printer's standby heater for the fuser unit, or a second monitor and desktop PC left in sleep mode rather than properly shut down.

Pool Pumps, Heat Pumps and Other Continuous Loads

Pool pumps, spa heaters and heat pump hot water systems aren't strictly "standby" in the classic sense. But when left running or idling outside their scheduled cycle, they can be a much larger source of wasted energy than any lounge room gadget. These circuits often run on dedicated switchboard wiring, which is where whole-circuit monitoring becomes useful rather than a simple plug-in device.

Standby Power: Which Appliances Cost the Most to Leave On?, image 2
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How to Find Out What's Really Costing You

Guessing which appliances are the worst offenders is far less useful than measuring them. A handful of Australian-available smart plugs and power boards are built specifically for this.

The TP-Link Tapo P110 Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring is designed to track the power consumption (kWh) of whatever is plugged into it. That makes it a straightforward way to check an individual appliance like a games console, subwoofer or coffee machine against your electricity tariff. The trade-off is that it monitors one outlet at a time, so you'll need several if you want to audit an entire entertainment unit or kitchen bench.

Tapo P110 Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring
#1

TP-Link Tapo P110 Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring

Best for: Renters and households wanting to see what individual plug-in appliances draw, using Alexa, Google Assistant or SmartThings without buying a hub

What we like

  • TP-Link lists an Australian plug rated 220-240V with a 10A, 2300W maximum load, carrying RCM and SAA certifications
  • Real-time energy monitoring in the Tapo app, with bill estimates based on single or time-of-use electricity rates, according to TP-Link
  • No hub required, per TP-Link's setup instructions
  • TP-Link says it adds overload protection and can switch off when draw passes a threshold you set
  • Two-year TP-Link Australia warranty for smart power products bought from an authorised retailer

Worth knowing

  • 2.4GHz Wi-Fi only, according to TP-Link's specifications
  • The standard P110's Australian page does not list Matter or Apple Home support; that is the separate P110M
  • Energy figures are estimates from the app; TP-Link publishes no accuracy figure on its Australian product page

For a whole media unit or home office setup with multiple devices, the Eve Energy Strip 3-Outlet Smart Power Board is built around total energy consumption graphs across its three surge-protected sockets. That lets you see combined standby draw over time rather than checking one plug at a time. It suits people who want a tidier single-device solution instead of a row of individual smart plugs, though it only covers three outlets, so larger setups may still need extra monitoring elsewhere.

Energy Strip 3-Outlet Smart Power Board
#2

Eve Energy Strip 3-Outlet Smart Power Board

Best for: Apple HomeKit users wanting individual outlet control with energy monitoring and surge protection

Perhaps you'd rather control several appliances independently — say, killing power to a soundbar and subwoofer overnight while leaving the TV's network module untouched. For that, the TP-Link Tapo P300 Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip offers individually controlled sockets across its three-outlet board. It also has USB-C PD charging for phones and tablets. This is useful where different devices in the same power board need different schedules, though it's worth checking your existing chargers and adapters still fit comfortably alongside the block's shape.

Tapo P300 Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip
#3

TP-Link Tapo P300 Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip

Best for: Australians wanting individually controlled smart power outlets compatible with Apple Home, Google Home, and Alexa without requiring a separate smart hub.

What we like

  • Three AC outlets can be controlled individually via the Tapo app, voice assistants, or dedicated physical buttons.
  • Native platform support for Apple Home, Google Home, and Amazon Alexa out of the box without needing a bridge.
  • Includes one USB-C and two USB-A fast-charging ports supporting up to 18W when used individually.
  • Equipped with built-in surge, overload, and overheat protection alongside Australian RCM certification.

Worth knowing

  • The three USB ports are always on and cannot be switched off, scheduled, or automated in the app.
  • Does not include energy monitoring to track appliance power usage or electricity costs.
  • Lacks Matter support and is limited strictly to 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi networks.
  • Shared USB power drops to 15W total across all ports when multiple USB devices are connected at once.

For bigger continuous loads like pool pumps, heat pump hot water systems or ducted air conditioning, plug-in devices aren't appropriate since these are typically hardwired. The Shelly Pro 4PM 4-Channel DIN Rail Relay is designed to mount at the switchboard and provide monitoring across four channels, suiting pool pumps and heat pumps specifically. Because this involves fixed wiring at the switchboard, installation should only be done by a licensed electrician, and it isn't something to attempt as a DIY plug-in swap.

Pro 4PM 4-Channel DIN Rail Relay
#4

Shelly Pro 4PM 4-Channel DIN Rail Relay

Best for: Homeowners wanting switchboard-level automation and individual power metering for up to four single-phase circuits via Home Assistant, Wi-Fi, or Ethernet.

What we like

  • Independent real-time power metering across four channels, supporting up to 16 A per channel and 40 A total device capacity.
  • Flexible connectivity featuring 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi, wired Ethernet (RJ45), and Bluetooth 4.2.
  • Integrated 1.8-inch colour display with navigation buttons for direct local monitoring and manual control.
  • Extensive local control capabilities, including native Home Assistant integration, local web server, webhooks, MQTT, and custom mjS scripting.
  • Operates without any subscription fees for cloud access, schedules, or local automations.

Worth knowing

  • Strictly limited to single-phase mains power; all four channels must share the same phase.
  • Outputs switch line voltage directly with no potential-free (dry) contacts.
  • Inductive loads (such as exhaust fans or LED drivers) require an external RC snubber to prevent switch damage.
  • Lacks native out-of-the-box support for Apple Home and Matter.

Practical Ways to Cut Standby Power Without Losing Convenience

Simple Habits That Help

Grouping entertainment devices on a single switched power board (smart or manual) makes it easy to cut standby power to the whole unit with one action at night. Leave your router and NBN modem on a separate, always-on circuit. Devices with genuine "eco" or deep sleep standby modes are usually worth enabling in their settings menu if available.

What Not to Switch Off Completely

Not everything should be cut at the wall. Devices with active firmware update cycles, networked smoke alarms, or appliances mid-cycle (like a dishwasher on a delay start) shouldn't be interrupted. If you're unsure what's safe to cut, our guide on what you should never plug into a smart plug is a useful starting point before you automate anything.

Renters and Strata Considerations

Renters can generally use plug-in smart plugs and power boards without needing landlord approval, since nothing is permanently altered. Anything involving switchboard work — like a DIN-rail relay — sits differently, since it touches fixed wiring. It may require both a licensed electrician and, in a strata or rental context, checking your lease or by-laws before proceeding. If you rent, our guide to smart-home-ready batteries also explores portable power and monitoring setups that avoid fixed wiring altogether.

Standby Power: Which Appliances Cost the Most to Leave On?, image 3
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When It's Worth Involving an Electrician

If you're chasing standby power on a pool pump, ducted system, or anything wired directly into the switchboard, this isn't a job for a plug-in device. A licensed electrician can advise on safe options for that circuit, including whether a DIN-rail monitoring relay is appropriate for your specific setup, and ensure everything complies with relevant AS/NZS wiring rules.

For more detail on getting started with plug-in monitoring generally, see our guide on how smart plugs and energy monitors can cut your Australian power bill. We also cover what to check before buying a smart plug.

Sources

Where to buy

Retailers stocking the products in this guide. Prices and stock change often, so check the retailer before you buy. We may earn a commission from these links at no extra cost to you.

FAQs

Which single appliance usually wastes the most standby power in an Australian home?

There's no universal answer — it depends on the specific brand, model and age of your appliances. Home theatre systems with multiple always-on components (TV, soundbar, subwoofer, console) are commonly cited as high standby users, but the only way to know for certain in your own home is to measure individual devices with an energy-monitoring smart plug.

Does turning things off at the wall actually save money?

Yes, generally — cutting power at the wall stops standby draw entirely, whereas leaving a device in "off" or standby mode via its remote often still allows some current to flow. The amount you save depends on the appliance and how long it sits idle, so measuring first helps you prioritise which devices are worth the habit change.

Can I use a smart plug on my fridge or freezer to monitor standby power?

This is generally discouraged. Fridges and freezers have compressors that shouldn't be repeatedly interrupted, and continuous monitoring plugs are better suited to entertainment gear, chargers and small appliances. See our guide on <a href="https://nxtsmarthome.com.au/energy/what-not-to-plug-into-a-smart-plug-australia">what not to plug into a smart plug</a> for more on this.

Is it worth buying several energy-monitoring smart plugs just to find standby waste?

If you're serious about identifying where your bill is going, yes — a handful of plugs rotated around different appliances over a few weeks gives you real data rather than guesswork. Many households find a small number of monitoring plugs pays for itself once they identify one or two high-draw devices worth switching off or replacing.

Do gaming consoles really use much power in standby or rest mode?

Consoles set to allow instant wake or background downloads typically draw more in standby than those fully powered down, though the exact figure depends on the console and its settings. If you want to check, an energy-monitoring smart plug on that specific outlet will show you the real draw for your unit.

Should I get an electrician to check my switchboard for standby waste?

If you suspect a large continuous load like a pool pump, heat pump or ducted air conditioner is running when it shouldn't be, that's a switchboard-level question best handled by a licensed electrician, since it involves fixed wiring rather than something you can measure or change safely yourself.

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