Most smart kitchen devices add an app and a higher price tag without solving a problem you actually have. A smart kettle that boils water via your phone rarely beats walking three metres. A smart fridge with a screen adds cost and another thing to update. The devices worth automating in a kitchen are those that run unattended, need scheduling, or benefit from remote monitoring when you're genuinely away from the room.
What makes a kitchen device worth automating?
A device earns automation when it does one of three things. It runs long enough that you leave the room, needs to start or stop at a specific time, or creates a safety risk if left running.
Dishwashers and slow cookers run for hours. You're not watching them. Remote control or scheduling makes sense.
Kettles and toasters finish in minutes. You're standing there. An app adds steps.
Refrigerators run constantly. A temperature alert has value if something fails. A screen that shows recipes does not.
The devices that make sense
Smart plugs for non-smart appliances
A smart plug turns any appliance with a mechanical switch into a scheduled device. Plug in a slow cooker, rice cooker or coffee machine with a physical on/off switch, and you can start it remotely or on a timer.
The appliance must stay on when power is restored. Most modern appliances with touch controls return to standby when power is cut, making a smart plug useless. Test it: unplug the device, plug it back in, and see if it resumes.
Smart plugs also let you monitor power draw. If your fridge suddenly pulls more current, the compressor may be failing. If a coffee machine stays warm all day, you can schedule it off after breakfast.
Connected range hoods and exhaust fans
A range hood linked to motion sensors or a smart button saves the step of reaching for a switch when your hands are wet or full. Link it to a timer and it shuts off automatically after ten minutes.
Some connect via Zigbee or Z-Wave. Others use RF remotes that pair with a bridge. The bridge then connects to your home automation system.
WiFi+RF Bridge Smart Home Automation Module
Best for: Australians wanting to connect basic 433 MHz fixed-code remote controls and sensors into app-based or voice-controlled smart systems.
What we like
- Supports up to 16 RF devices with a maximum of 64 buttons or sensor alarms according to ITEAD Studio specifications
- Integrates with Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Samsung SmartThings, and Home Assistant via eWeLink platforms
- Provides onboard scheduling with support for up to 8 schedule, countdown, and loop timers
- Standard operation does not require a paid subscription, using the free eWeLink app
Worth knowing
- Does not support rolling-code or dynamically encrypted 433 MHz equipment, excluding most modern automated garage doors
- Lacks bi-directional communication, meaning it cannot confirm the actual on or off status of connected RF appliances
- Requires a user-supplied 5V/1A USB power adapter and operates solely on 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi networks
Smart dishwashers with delay-start and alerts
Some dishwashers with Wi-Fi let you start a cycle remotely or delay it until off-peak electricity rates begin. The alert when the cycle finishes is useful if you're upstairs or outside.
The value depends on your electricity plan. If you have time-of-use billing, scheduling a dishwasher to run at 2am can cut your quarterly bill. If you pay a flat rate, remote start rarely matters.
Check whether your model can start remotely or only sends alerts. Many require you to load the dishwasher, press start, then close the door. The app then does nothing you couldn't do by pressing the button.
Leak detectors under sinks
A water leak sensor is not glamorous, but it's the most practical smart device you can put in a kitchen. Place one under the sink, near the dishwasher inlet, or next to the fridge water line.
When water touches the sensor, it sends an alert to your phone. If you're home, you catch it before the floor warps. If you're away, you can ask a neighbour to check or shut off the main valve remotely if you have a smart water valve.
Most leak detectors use Zigbee, Z-Wave or Wi-Fi. Zigbee models need a hub.
The automation hub question
Kitchen devices rarely all speak the same protocol. A smart plug might use Wi-Fi. A leak sensor uses Zigbee. A range hood uses an RF remote. You need a hub that bridges them.
A multi-protocol hub like the Homey Bridge or Samsung SmartThings Station connects Zigbee, Z-Wave, Bluetooth and Wi-Fi devices in one app. That lets you build routines: when the leak detector trips, it sends a notification and shuts off the smart valve.
Homey Bridge The ultimate home automation hub
Best for: Australians seeking a multi-protocol hub to control Zigbee, Z-Wave, 433 MHz, and infrared devices through one cloud app without managing local server hardware.
What we like
- Integrates Zigbee, Z-Wave Plus, 433 MHz, Bluetooth Low Energy, and Infrared within a single transceiver.
- Connects with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa via official Homey Cloud integrations.
- Can function as a wireless satellite range extender for Homey Pro environments according to Homey.
- Supplied with an Australian-compliant power adapter and backed by a two-year warranty.
Worth knowing
- Requires an ongoing Homey Premium subscription to connect more than five devices or access advanced logic tools.
- Processes all automations in the cloud, stopping execution if your home internet connection goes offline.
- Does not support Matter, Thread, native Apple HomeKit, or wired Ethernet connections.
- Limited to 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi and cannot run community-built local Homey Pro applications.
If you already use Samsung SmartThings, the Aeotec Smart Home Hub adds Z-Wave and Zigbee without changing apps. It works as a local hub, meaning routines can run even when your internet drops.
Aeotec Smart Home Hub (SmartThings)
Best for: Australians using the SmartThings ecosystem who want a single hub to manage Zigbee, Thread, Matter, and local Australian-frequency Z-Wave devices without a subscription.
What we like
- Supports multiple protocols including Zigbee 3.0, Thread, Matter, and Australian-frequency (921.4 MHz) Z-Wave Plus.
- Requires no ongoing mandatory subscription fees to use the hub or SmartThings platform.
- Includes both 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi and a 10/100 Mbps Ethernet port for flexible placement near your home router.
- Works directly with Amazon Alexa and Google Home via SmartThings cloud integrations.
Worth knowing
- Wi-Fi connectivity is strictly limited to 2.4 GHz bands with no 5 GHz support.
- Does not natively expose connected Zigbee or Z-Wave devices outbound to Apple Home via Matter.
- Relies on Samsung's cloud infrastructure for initial setup, general app controls, and remote management.
- Uses a DC barrel jack connector instead of a modern USB-C power input.
For Zigbee-only setups, a USB dongle like the SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 plugs into a Raspberry Pi or PC running Home Assistant. That keeps control entirely local, with no cloud dependency.
SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle
Best for: Home Assistant, Zigbee2MQTT or openHAB users who want one local Zigbee coordinator for mixed-brand devices instead of a brand-specific hub
What we like
- Home Assistant's ZHA documentation lists the ZBDongle-E (EFR32MG21 variant) among its recommended EZSP adapters, and Zigbee2MQTT lists it under its EmberZNet adapters
- ITEAD says it works with ZHA, Zigbee2MQTT, openHAB, ioBroker, Domoticz and Jeedom, so Zigbee devices can be controlled locally without a vendor cloud
- Powered from a USB port (ITEAD lists DC 5V, 100mA max), so there is no extra power adapter or mains plug to find a spot for
- ITEAD says it can be reflashed as a Zigbee router, and Sonoff's dongle guide says Thread (OpenThread RCP) firmware is another option
Worth knowing
- Not a standalone hub - it needs a computer or single-board machine running Home Assistant, Zigbee2MQTT or similar software
- ITEAD quotes 30 direct child devices in coordinator mode, so larger networks lean on mains-powered Zigbee routers
- Windows and macOS need a USB serial driver, according to ITEAD
- Several similarly named Sonoff dongles exist, so it is easy to buy a different variant from the one a guide assumes
The devices that add hassle
Smart fridges with screens
A fridge with a touchscreen costs hundreds or thousands more than the same fridge without one. The screen shows recipes, calendars and photos. None of that requires the screen to be on a fridge.
The software ages quickly. A fridge lasts fifteen years. The Android version on the screen will be obsolete in three. You'll have a functioning fridge with a screen that no longer updates, slower than the phone in your pocket.
Some smart fridges send alerts when the door is open too long or the temperature rises. That feature occasionally has value. It rarely justifies the price gap.
Smart kettles and coffee makers
"Boil the kettle from bed" sounds convenient until you realise you still have to walk to the kitchen to make the tea. The thirty seconds you saved by starting the kettle remotely are lost filling the cup.
Smart coffee makers with app control are useful if you can load the machine at night, then start it from bed so coffee is ready when you reach the kitchen. That requires a machine that keeps water and grounds fresh overnight without growing mould or going stale. Most do not.
Smart ovens with remote preheat
An oven that preheats via your phone sounds efficient until you consider fire risk. Turning on an oven remotely means you're not in the room to confirm nothing flammable is inside or near the stove.
Most manufacturers disable remote ignition for gas ovens entirely. Electric ovens sometimes allow remote preheat, but only if you've manually confirmed the oven is empty and enabled the feature on the appliance itself first. At that point, you're standing in front of the oven. Just turn it on.
Building routines that work
Automation earns its place when it removes a repeated step or catches a problem you'd otherwise miss. A routine that turns off all kitchen smart plugs at midnight prevents you from leaving the coffee machine on overnight. A routine that sends an alert when the dishwasher finishes means you can unload it before condensation settles.
For routines to work reliably, your devices need a stable connection. Most kitchen devices use 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, which struggles if your router defaults to 5GHz. You may need to connect smart devices to 2.4GHz Wi-Fi explicitly or set up a separate network for smart devices.
Start with simple routines. If your coffee machine uses a smart plug with a mechanical switch, create a routine that powers it on at 6:30am weekdays and off at 8:30am. Once that works, add a second device. Complexity breaks routines. Keep them narrow.
Read more about how scenes, routines and sensors actually work to understand how to chain actions reliably.
When automation fails: the internet question
Most smart kitchen devices depend on cloud servers. If your internet drops, a Wi-Fi smart plug stops responding to routines. If the manufacturer's server goes down, your app shows an error.
Some hubs run routines locally. Samsung SmartThings, Homey and Home Assistant can execute routines between local devices without internet. That means a leak sensor can still trigger a smart valve even if your broadband is out.
Before buying, check whether the device or hub you're considering works locally. Our guide on whether smart home devices work without internet lists which platforms and protocols continue functioning offline.
Installation and electrical work
Smart plugs, leak detectors and battery-powered sensors need no installation beyond pairing them with your hub. Plug them in or stick them down.
Hardwired devices like smart range hoods, ovens or dishwashers that replace existing appliances must be installed by a licensed electrician. Fixed wiring work in Australian homes must meet AS/NZS 3000 and be carried out by someone licensed in your state. Your state electrical safety regulator sets the rules. Do not attempt fixed wiring work yourself.
Replacing an entire appliance with a smart version is usually legal for a homeowner if it's a plug-in appliance. Altering the wiring to that appliance is not. If in doubt, hire an electrician.
Comparison of kitchen automation hubs
| Hub | Protocols supported | Local control | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Homey Bridge | Zigbee, Z-Wave, Bluetooth, infrared, Wi-Fi | Yes | Multi-protocol households |
| Aeotec SmartThings Hub | Zigbee, Z-Wave, Wi-Fi | Yes | Existing SmartThings users |
| SONOFF Zigbee USB Dongle | Zigbee 3.0 | Yes (with Home Assistant) | Zigbee-only, local control priority |
| WiFi+RF Bridge | Wi-Fi, 433MHz RF | Partial | Connecting RF remotes to Wi-Fi |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I control my smart kitchen devices when the internet is down?
It depends on the device and hub. Wi-Fi devices that rely on the manufacturer's cloud server stop responding when your internet drops. Zigbee and Z-Wave devices controlled by a local hub like SmartThings or Home Assistant continue working for routines that don't involve cloud services. Check whether your hub supports local execution before buying.
Do smart kitchen devices use much power when on standby?
Most smart plugs and connected appliances draw between 0.5 and 2 watts on standby. Over a year, that's roughly $2 to $8 per device at average Australian electricity rates. The power used by the device itself when running matters far more than the smart feature's standby draw.
Are smart kitchen devices safe to leave running when I'm not home?
Devices designed to run unattended, like dishwashers and slow cookers, are generally safe if installed correctly. Do not remotely start any heating appliance unless you've confirmed nothing flammable is inside or nearby. Most manufacturers disable remote ignition on ovens for this reason. Leak detectors and automatic shut-off valves improve safety when you're away.
Can I add a smart plug to my existing oven or cooktop?
No. Ovens and cooktops draw too much current for standard smart plugs, which are rated for 10 amps in Australia. High-draw appliances need their own dedicated circuit and cannot be safely controlled via a plug-in device. If you want remote control of an oven, you need a model with that feature built in.
Do I need a separate hub for each brand of kitchen device?
Not if you choose a multi-protocol hub. Hubs like Homey Bridge, SmartThings, and Home Assistant work with devices from many manufacturers, as long as those devices use standard protocols like Zigbee, Z-Wave or Wi-Fi. Proprietary devices locked to a single brand's ecosystem require that brand's hub or bridge.
Will my smart dishwasher or fridge still work if the company stops supporting the app?
The appliance will continue to function as a normal appliance using its physical controls. Remote features, scheduling and alerts will stop working if the manufacturer shuts down the cloud servers and does not provide a local control option. Before buying, check whether the appliance supports local control through a third-party hub as a fallback.
Related guides
- Smart Home Automation for Beginners: Your First 5 Routines
- How to Set Up Vacation Mode on Your Smart Home
- Bedroom Automation: Sleep, Wake and Light Scheduling
Sources
- Homey – Multi-protocol smart home hub
- SmartThings – Samsung smart home platform
- SONOFF – Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle specifications
- Electrical Safety Office (Victoria) – Licensed electrical work requirements
- Energy Safe Victoria – Wiring rules and regulations
- Home Assistant – Local control smart home platform
Comments
Leave a comment